West Lake vinegar fish, a traditional Hangzhou dish. [Photo/Hangzhou Daily]

Hangzhou restaurant Ru Yuan ranked 36th on the 2026 World's 50 Best Restaurants list, announced in Lima, Peru, on Nov 5, becoming the first restaurant in the city to make the top 50. Other Chinese mainland and Hong Kong entries included Meet the Bund in Shanghai, Wing Restaurant, and The Chairman Restaurant in Hong Kong.

Founded by Fu Yueliang, Ru Yuan has gained attention for reinventing traditional Hangzhou dishes, particularly West Lake vinegar fish.

Long criticized for its sharp acidity, dry texture, and muddy aftertaste, the dish has challenged local restaurants. While some removed it from their menus, Ru Yuan kept it as a signature offering and introduced a refund policy for dissatisfied customers. The latest version uses grass carp from Kaihua county, Zhejiang province, which is carefully cleaned and deboned, then cooked at low temperature.

The restaurant's approach reflects a broader effort to restore the reputation of Hangzhou cuisine. In December 2024, Hangzhou introduced local standards for traditional dishes, including detailed requirements for West Lake vinegar fish. More restaurants have since returned the dish to their menus, with some preparing it in open kitchens to improve transparency and consistency.

The demand for premium ingredients also benefits local producers. Kaihua's freshwater fish industry generated more than 400 million yuan ($59.95 million) in output value in 2025, supporting over 6,000 farming households.

Ru Yuan's ranking highlights generations of Hangzhou chefs' work to preserve and refine regional cuisine, while showing how traditional dishes can gain renewed recognition among diners worldwide.